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Gumbo

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Gumbo is an original creation and a cherished possession in South Louisiana kitchens. It may be made with file or with okra as a thickening agent. File is the powdered sassafras leaf. It was first used by the Choctaw Indians. Their word for sassafras is Kombo. File is never put in until just a minute before serving, never add file while cooking, whereas okra is added in the last few minutes of cooking.

Gumbo is a wonderful means of using leftovers: bits of ham or a ham bone, turkey, duck or chicken carcass, sausage, seafood or bacon. (When using a carcass or a ham bone, boil the bones and use this stock in the place of water.) Infinite variations in the recipe; all these ingredients are interchangeable in the following recipes. The thickness depends on the amount of water. Best served over mounds of hot rice in a large flat soup bowl.



FIRST YOU MAKE A ROUX

"First, you make a Roux!" How very often we have all heard "good French cooks" begin to share a recipe with just those words! And the roux is certainly the foundation of many sauces and gravies.

2 tablespoons butter, shortening or bacon drippings and 2 tablespoons flour

Melt the butter, shortening or bacon drippings in thick pot or skillet. Add the flour and stir constantly until dark brown, being careful not to burn. If there is the slightest indication of over-browning, dispose of the roux and start over. Even a slightly burned sauce will ruin a savory dish. To this basic roux, add seasoning and stock to make various sauces and gravies.



BASIC FILE SHRIMP GUMBO

3 quarts water, 3 tablespoons flour, 1 onion, quartered, 11/2 teaspoons salt, 3 cloves garlic, Pepper, 1/ bell pepper, Oysters (1/2 pint), 3 tablespoons oil or bacon drippings, Shrimp (1 pound) and 1 teaspoon file

Let vegetables simmer in water until they fall apart. Mash on plate, discarding pepper skin. Return pulp to water. Make dark roux of oil and flour, stirring constantly. Slowly stir in seasoned water, then salt and pepper. Cook 5 minutes. Add shrimp and cook 15 minutes; then add oysters and simmer 5 more minutes. File should be added after gumbo is removed from heat, just before serving. Allow to stand 5 minutes after stirring in file. Serves 4.

The roux should be thicker for an oyster gumbo than one without because of the water exuded by oysters.



CHICKEN OKRA GUMBO

1 fryer (about 2 pounds), 1 ½ pounds fresh okra, 1 fresh tomato chopped, 1 large onion chopped, 2 tablespoons shortening, 3 tablespoons shortening or bacon drippings (from that used to fry chicken), 2 tablespoons flour, 3 quarts water, Salt and pepper to taste

Cut up chicken; dredge with flour, salt, and pepper. Fry until brown. Fry okra with tomato and onion in the shortening. Make a roux in heavy skillet with grease from fried chicken and flour. Brown roux. Add fried chicken and the vegetables. Stir for a few minutes. Add water. Salt and pepper to taste. Cook for about 2 hours. Serves 6.


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